Fur has been sparking controversies ever since sumptuary laws marked it as a luxury item and as a sign of medieval class privilege. Drawing on wide-ranging historical and contemporary sources, Julia Emberley explains how a material goods has become both a symbol of wealth and sexuality--and a symptom of class, gender, and imperial antagonism. 41 illustrations. ...

"A fascinating account of the powerful roles fur has played in various cultures and of the historical and political forces at work in the play of its meanings."--Jonathan Culler, Cornell University"In this well-written treatise, Emberley... views fur through widely disparate lenses.... Emberley is able to make us understand all the viewpoints she presents.... A valuable book on a little-explored subject."--Library Journal"This is a strong and intelligent work on a controversial topic. Emberley's book is much more intellectually sophisticated than anything else I've seen on this subject."--Valerie Steele, Editor, Fashion Theory"Julia Emberley's book is a complex, wide-ranging, and fascinating feminist critique of the history and meaning of fur and fashion. Particularly unique is her integration of indigenous voices into the debates."--Lucy Lippard, author of The Pink Glass Swan: Selected Feminist Essays on ArtFur has been sparking controversies ever since sumptuary laws marked it as a luxury item and as a sign of medieval class privilege. Drawing on wide-ranging historical and contemporary sources, Julia V. Emberley explains how a material good has become both a symbol of wealth and sexuality, and a symptom of class, gender, and imperial antagonisms.